Summer is here, which means that if you aren’t filling your days end-to-end with some combination of marshmallow, chocolate, and graham crackers, you’re just not living your life to its full potential. With July comes the annual onslaught of “s’mores” flavored products, and, not to be outdone, Dunkin’ Donuts has released a doozy. From the press release:
“A donut delivering the taste of a classic campfire treat, Dunkin’ Donuts’ new S’mores donut offers the perfect sweet and creamy combination of toasted marshmallow flavored filling and decadent s’mores topping made with HERSHEY’S® chocolate for an authentic s’mores experience any time of day.”
Astute readers may have noticed a lack of details in that description. A “decadent s’mores topping,” you say? That’s miniature marshmallows, little chunks of graham cracker, Dunkin’s standard-issue chocolate frosting, and additional chunks of even more chocolate.
Okay, so if the whole thing LOOKS like a diabetic curbstomp of smashed up candy, frosting, and cheap fried cake designed to make your throat itch and your teeth rot out of your stupid head, then how does it TASTE?
Pretty great, actually. The yeast-based donut itself is FILLED nearly wall-to-wall with a “toasted” marshmallow flavored frosting that seems lighter than the stuff that’s usually piped into Dunkin’s donuts, with next-level sweetness that starts to give you a sugar headache even as you begin to work your way through the single donut’s 410 calories.
As for the scattershot slurry of sugary shit on top? We’re divided. The miniature marshmallows were a great addition, and provided some of the weird, pleasantly crunchy texture you would find in a box of Lucky Charms. The graham pieces were sort of soggy and soft, and the additional (in our mind, kind of unnecessary) chocolate pieces didn’t taste like much of anything at all.
Look, there’s a much more sophisticated way to make a s’mores donut. The fancy donut shop in the college town twenty miles away with the nitrogen coffee and the fixed gear bicycles out front would do a graham-flavored donut, filled with a duo of chocolate frosting and marshmallow fluff, and then roll the whole thing in fair-trade cinnamon sugar. It would taste way better, it would be made with real food, and it would cost $5.
But that’s not what Dunkin’ Donuts is about. Even as the chain finds ways to get its single donut prices up (seriously, enough already with all of these filled and frosted cronut knockoffs), the S’mores donut at our local Dunkin’ Donuts was still priced at around a buck. That’s a lot of morning jump-starting sugar, and a lot of different textures and flavor, for next to no money. And godamnit if it doesn’t go really, really well with an iced coffee.